Posted by: bkropf | March 31, 2008

The Love Affair with Gelato

We arrived at the huge Ferry to take us on a six hour ride to Dubrovnik. We found it mostly smokey with a creepy guy or two walking around eyeing out bags. I slept awhile and Tyler typed on the computer and watched the bags. He struck up a conversation with some nice people from Leavenworth, Washington. I woke up and eventually started exploring the ship. The Marco Polo was huge and I finally found the top deck and couldn’t believe there was no wind and that the sun was warm. I stayed on the top of the ship and talked with the people from Leavenworth for an hour or so. It was such a beautiful trip, going through all the islands while sitting in the warm sun. Eventually we moved all our bags up and spent most of the trip talking and enjoying the weather. It is so hard to believe it was just snowing about 24 hours ago.Arriving in Dubrovnik was an experience to remember. We approached to see massive artistic bridges, cruise ships and even a small pirate ship. It seemed like we were in an undiscovered paradise (undiscovered except for the cruise ship but they were leaving as we arrived). Dubrovnik is quite small and a great place to relax. We have been traveling quickly and we decided to slow down and recoup in this town for four days. We easily found our apartment which is in a family’s house. The guy receiving us was super nice and made us feel welcome. Our room just happens to be the smallest room ever, I think it is about like living in a hallway. It is about 7 feet wide and 20 feet long. Two single beds barely fit side by side and we can barely fit our bags at the end. The bathroom is so small we literally can barely fit in to close the door. I basically have to walk in, stand on the toilet and then shut the door. With the door shut I can step off the toilet and use the sink. With that said, it is very nice and we are happy to be within the walls of the city.

Dubrovnik is an old city with actual walls used to defend against all sorts of invaders over the past 800 or so years. If you check out a video on youtube you can actually see the Serbian army shelling the city in the 1990’s. The city walls held strong and the inhabitants actually drove the Serbs out of the nearby mountains. If you can imagine, the Croatians here don’t really think highly of the Serbs. I really can’t describe how cool the city is. You’ll just have to check the pictures and read about it onthe Wikitravel link.

We got some pizza upon arrival and it was horrible. So far I think this city is pretty much characterized by having pretty bad food (or at least not as good as some of the other cities I have been to recently). There are also tons of cats all over the city. I began naming the strays but quickly gave that up as there are too many. There are so few tourist and I am loving that. You see some of the tourists multiple times a day. I have run into a French couple many times and I recognize an Asian family each time they pass. I feel like I should start waving or something.

There are also tons of pigeons. I don’t know if it is the season or if this town is just romantic but these pigeons seem to be pairing up every time we look. Tyler has caught some making babies already. I feel like I am quite familiar with pigeon mating rituals after my short visit in Dubrovnik. On a different note, this must be a tough place to be a pigeon. It seem like many are missing toes (or they might be called talons, who knows). I saw one with a peg leg today.

Tyler has been having a love affair with gelato since we arrived. We had a debate whether one shop was selling gelato or just plain ice-cream. I told him that in Croatia it was the same thing. He disagreed and said he was only going to get gelato. He promptly walked into the store and asked if what they were selling was ice-cream. They said they were selling ice-cream so he left to hold out for gelato. I told him it was gelado and they thought he was a dumb American so they called it ice-cream to humor him. I bet him if I walked in and asked if they were selling gelato they would answer ‘Yes.’ At the next ice-cream (aka Gelato) shop he relented and we bought some.

This being a slow time for tourism the restaurants are having a hard time filling seats. You walk around and see tons of tables in the streets totally empty. Each restaurant has a ‘salesperson’ out in front assailing passersby to stop. It gets a little tiresome but we try to use it to our advantage. As we start down restaurant row we browse at menus and see who offers us the best deal. Some people throw in free bottles of wine and then we usually have dinner there (I love capitalism). Sometimes I am tired of everyone trying to get us to stop. When the front of the shop is empty we stop to browse the menu in solitude. When the shop keeper sees potential customers they run out and we quickly make a hasty retreat. It has gotten so bad that the lady running the restaurant outside our apartment has offered to make special meals for us if we stop. It just keeps getting better and better. It will all change in two weeks when the tourist droves start to arrive.



  1. Whoa Barney, dubrovnik looks like a stinking awesome place, and thats just on google earth. I suggest you guys rent some harleys and go explore. There looks like a lot of awesome places with great views. There is no statues though. At least I can’t find any, so find this place.

    There also seems to be this trail that switchbacks up the mountain straight north of the walled part of town. Go up there and take a picture just like this:

  2. This picture was taken near the first link 🙂

    Good sunsets in Dubrovnik!

  3. Sorry dudes, we are already in Mostar, Bosnia. No time to find any pictures. Maybe you can send us something from Mostar. The hostel owners are taking us on a tour of the area so we got to run. This is definitely the most war torn area we have been to yet. Very interesting.

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